Welcome to the Anderson "Ultra-Portable" and Floor Model Traditional Hooking Frames
The hooking frames illustrated below were developed a couple of years ago to answer the need for a reasonably priced, easy to use and aesthetically pleasing wooden frame. My mentor in this process was a professional hooker and weaver with over 20 years of experience. Through her guidance, we have created two models which combine all of the necessary attributes to make your hooking easier and more fun - and without requiring a wallet-breaking investment to get started.
Perhaps a short discussion of exactly how the frames work is the best way to introduce you to them.
The principles of operation are exactly the same for both models. Both have 1/2" thick pin-guard sticks on the sides which, as you will see, come into play in mounting your backing. In addition, the lap model also has pin guards on the laterals for the protection of the pins during travel. A couple of words regarding the pins before we go any further - the pins are
made of hardened steel so they will not bend, and are spaced 1 and 1/2" apart around the edges of the harp. Having a diameter of 1/16" and a smooth, rounded top, the exposed 1/2" length of the pins is neatly covered by the matching thickness of the pin-guard sticks.
Referring to the drawings, the frames are designed to allow you to place any part of your rug over the working area (whether it is already hooked or bare) and make it taut to facilitate easy hooking. To summarize how this is done, I have included the usage instructions sent with each frame.
Tilt the harp so that it is horizontal, i.e., parallel or almost parallel to the floor. Rotate the top, round tensioning lateral so that the pins are sticking straight up. Lightly lock the lateral in that position by turning in on either the left or the right ball knob. (Either one will lock the lateral in place so, depending on whether you are right or left-handed, one will be easier). Place a pin guard over the pins on each side to effectively "blank them off" for the time being.
Next, position your backing over the bottom, flat lateral so that the area you wish to hook will fall between the sides and the top, round tensioning lateral. Start in the middle and, as you gently pull out and smooth the material, slip the backing down and over the pins. When you are satisfied that it is even on the flat lateral, gently pull and tension the material up (away from you) to the round lateral and do the same thing - again starting in the middle and working out to the right and left. When you are satisfied that the material is evenly mounted, reach under and grasp the rotating lever with your thumb and forefinger while, at the same time, unlocking the ball knob. Rotate the round tensioning lateral away from you with the rotating lever and when the rug backing becomes taut to your specifications, retighten the ball knob to lock it in position. If you positioned your rug backing evenly on the pins, the whole working area will be uniformly taut up and down. To really make it nice and taut all over, reach around one side at a time, and slip the wooden pin guards up and off the pins. Pull the backing out gently to tension it the desired amount and slip it down over the five pins on each side to hold it. Now you are ready to start hooking in earnest with the flat bottom lateral as a comfortable arm rest!
To move to a different area, just reverse the process, gently lifting the rug backing up and off the pins. The pins are absolutely smooth and round so no damage will be done to the material or to the hooked portion of the rug.
Your frame will come to you via U.P.S. I ship (and pay the shipping and handling at no extra expense to you) within a couple of days of receipt of your order. I haven't gotten into credit cards and don't intend to, so just your check or money order is fine.
The lap frame comes completely assembled while the floor model requires easy assembly of the feet to the legs and tapping in of the pins. Both frames are made of tulip-magnolia hardwood (often erroneously called "poplar") and are finished with multiple coats of "golden oak" stain/finish. If you like beautiful wood and enjoy the feel of a fine finish, this is the frame for you! In addition, if you would prefer a different shade, I will stain your frame whatever color you would like, e.g., walnut, cherry, mahogany, etc., for an additional $10.00 charge. I will also custom-make a frame to your dimensions, with the price to be determined on a case-by-case basis.
My guarantee is 100%. Order one (or both!), use it for a reasonable trial period and, if you don't like it, send it back for a full refund. Prices are $95.00 for the lap frame and $105.00 for the floor model.